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Past Nobility
In December 2007 I helped a friend photograph the erstwhile residences of Lhasa's former ruling elite. My friend was doing historical research on the Tibetan aristocracy. She had asked a descendant of one of the noble families, a well-known author and public figure, to give us a tour through these mansions. With him as a guide all doors were open.
After 1959, the spacious residences of the former nobility were divided into small units for ordinary compatriots. The residences usually feature generous courtyards where much of daily life takes place. Children play, adults do their laundry, prepare food on the solar cookers, or indulge in a game of dice and a bottle of liquor.
These crumbling old houses with their courtyards and cramped living quarters have a very special atmosphere. At first sight, they appear to be islands of Tibetan life in a city that is otherwise rapidly becoming Chinese. However, far from being enclaves of Tibetan tradition, these communal mansions are actually relics of a socialist past.
Several of these aristocratic houses are currently being converted into heritage hotels. Wealthy tourists may soon succeed their current occupants. However, some of the families living in these mansions would not mind: the new developments on the outskirts of the city promise better facilities as well as more space and privacy.
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This privacy policy has been updated on 30 December 2018.