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Apo Is.
Apo Is. – short for Apo Island – lies a few kilometres off the coast of Negros in the Philippines. There are one hundred and fifty-six households, about a thousand people, maybe a hundred boats, a few dive shops, a couple of lodges, one church and a giant Christmas tree made of palm leaves stalks.
Apo is famous for its turtles that are totally at ease with the presence of people. "They know that they are safe and protected", I am told. Many divers and snorkelers come here to see them. Most, however, leave again in the evening and tourism has remained a limited source of income. The islanders continue to rely on fishing and the money sent back from relatives. Many parents pursuing careers in Manila and elsewhere have their children grow up here in the palm of this island community.
And a community it is. Every evening before sunset, the entire island seems to gather along the small strip of sand that serves as harbour, seaside promenade, volleyball field, and stand-in beach for the few tourists who stay on the island. It is a merry hour of wild games, boys showing off, girls pretending not to notice, and children running and climbing on the boats. They should't, I learn. But what to do? "There is no point in telling them". Only when the night falls and the island's diesel generator starts up, the TV shows manage to lure them away.
Apo is. Very much.
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